How should a man dress to look expensive? Creating an old money look

designer, stylist, owner of the accessories brand OKATAVA

“The world’s leading designers, celebrities, bloggers and trend watchers are now obsessed with old money. The discreet, respectable style, which originated exactly one hundred years ago, has become part of mass culture. Where does it come from, what is its meaning, what makes it so attractive nowadays and how to match it? Let’s find out together.

How did the old money style originate?

Historians and anthropologists know that since the emergence of the first human communities, representatives of the elite sought to emphasize their exclusivity. The leader of the primitive tribe decorated himself with wild animal skins, bones and bird feathers. Then accessories made of iron, bronze and gold appeared.

The further progress was made, the more luxurious and flashy the appearance of the rulers became. Precious robes of Roman popes, magnificent outfits of kings and queens, as well as their courtiers – all this was not just a tribute to vanity. The rulers competed with each other. The splendor of their courts was part of foreign and domestic policy.

It would seem that eye-blinding luxury is an indispensable part of wealth and belonging to the elite. But at a certain point people realized that restraint in clothing is a more reliable sign of wealth than tinsel and gilding.

It is believed that the aesthetics of old money originated in the United States, in the 20s of XX century, in the historical territory of the first 13 states that signed the Declaration of Independence. It is the style of people who inherited the family fortunes that their grandfathers – the first settlers of the overseas British colony – had amassed.

They came from generic Puritan families who had fled to the New World from religious persecution. Such people were brought up in the framework of strict morality, did not allow themselves anything extra either in behavior or in consumption.

Their own clan, family, and sense of dignity were their main values. They did not need to remind others of their condition every chance they got, as the upstart nouveau riche did.

People from old money did not know poverty, so they did not consider it important to show luxury. They did not have to struggle for survival, but they followed the norms of their great-grandfathers’ external etiquette with dignity.

There was probably an element of snobbery in this: they did not want to be like the “upstarts” from the Western states, who had just earned a lot of money and went “all the way”.

The aristocracy of this style is not conspicuous, it is unobtrusive and yet obvious. It is not by chance that old money is primarily associated with the Ivy League – an association of eight of the oldest and most prestigious universities in the United States, with endowment funds of tens of billions of dollars (Harvard’s endowment in 2014 amounted to $ 36.4 billion).

Students of these institutions are the children and grandchildren of the American financial elite that made the United States the richest country in the world. They are descended from WASPs – white Anglo-Saxon Protestant businessmen.

Since then, old money has become the style of millionaires and part of the image of truly wealthy people and crowned persons around the world.

The basic principles of old money

On the surface, this style seems simple. But the one who decided to follow it, must comply with several laws. If they are neglected, graceful carelessness will turn into a shouty sloppiness.

1. Naturalness

The basis of old money aesthetics is discreet, good quality things made exclusively of natural materials. Silk, wool, cashmere, leather, fur and suede. Plastic, eco-leather, glossy synthetic fabrics and other artificial materials will have to be excluded from your closet.

2. Restraint

The color scheme is also of great importance. Allow discreet, natural colors: white, black, beige, brown, gray, wine, sky blue and indigo. It is important that no more than three to five shades are neighboring in the closet. For example, sky blue, beige and indigo.

Prints and large drawings are not welcome. The maximum that a follower of this style can afford is a thin vertical stripe.

Another key condition is the absence of any logomania, shouting brands. All this is considered bad taste and a sign of nouveau riche.

3. Expensive

Discreet and restrained does not mean modest and democratic. At first glance, it is obvious that these things cost a lot of money. Mainly due to good natural fabrics and leather. In addition, people from old money are dressed by designers who do not invest billions in advertising budgets, but are well known in the circles of the elite.

What should be in the closet of an old money man?

Outerwear is a woolen coat with a straight cut or a strict trench coat. They will not save from a snowstorm and downpour, but will allow you to get from the car to the theater parade room.

Then – classic suits, tweed jackets, monochrome shirts of natural colors. In the cold season – a sweater or turtleneck of cashmere. In the summer closet – polo and cotton pants.

T-shirt, popular thanks to tennis, looks stylish and expensive. You should not be afraid to wear such an item of closet. It can be combined even with a suit. This technique is very fond of Hollywood actor Brad Pitt. So he appears on the red carpet of various film festivals.

This is not about a sporty style. Such an element of clothing will add the necessary relaxation, but will retain the principles of old money. Provided that the right color scheme and material are chosen.

Many people imagine a man in the style of old money in a shirt with a sweater on his shoulders. Indeed, this outfit fits perfectly. A win-win option is a monochromatic bow of dark color.

Here is also appropriate layering, which has been in trend for several seasons. For example, combine a cotton shirt, cashmere sweater and tweed jacket. It is important that everything was of restrained colors.

Pay attention to a double-breasted trench coat, a turtleneck made of merino yarn.

Shoes – classic leather boots, loafers and chelsea made of suede. In fashionable sneakers a man of old money goes out only for a morning jog.

Accessories are supposed to be as restrained, but expensive. These are watches, cufflinks, leather briefcase, silk handkerchief. Also an umbrella-cane, in case you are going to walk along the shores of Lake Como, Venetian canals or Nevsky Prospekt on a rainy day. A cool accessory here are also aviator sunglasses, which are always relevant.

Choosing jewelry, remember that they must be of the same color. It is strictly forbidden to combine silver and gold. This is bad taste, and also introduces visual noise and greatly cheapens the image.

Do not forget about the haircut, because the style of old money is manifested in everything. Give preference to classic hairstyles. It can be boxy, half-box, Canadian or kriff. If you wear a mustache or beard, it is better to get rid of them.

It is important to note that the closet of a man with elements of old money – not about strictness and boredom. He demonstrates thoughtful carelessness, elegance and comfort.

A very important factor is appropriateness. In these things is not accepted to ride the subway, stand at the bus stop, walk through snowdrifts and gullies, declare in a democratic beer hall.

A person who adheres to this style goes where people from his circle gather. He does not need the surprised and admiring looks of others. He does not consider it necessary to prove his superiority. Such a man broadcasts calm confidence and dignity.

Many people, so that the suit fits well, resort to the services of a tailor. That’s a great idea. Custom tailoring is especially important for closet items such as pantsuits, jackets and coats.

In addition to clothing and accessories, part of old money is also behavior. Even tone, politeness, confident and calm movements. If a person dressed according to the canons of this trend, had a scandal with the waiter or argued with a neighbor in the parking lot, it will be obvious that these things – just a masquerade.

Why is the elitist aesthetic popular today?

There could be many answers. On the one hand, people always want to look like the rich and successful. On the other hand, the interest in old money style is a reaction to the glamor that floods us from the media and social networks.

We see bloggers and showbiz stars, who have had a lot of money dumped on them, desperately competing in luxury, involving us as umpires. And the unobtrusive charm of people used to money has proved more appealing to society than the fussy vanity fair of the newly rich.

There is also an opinion that the popularization of this style contributed to the release of the series “The Crown” and “The Heirs”. In these movies we saw how people from ancient monarchical families and heirs of colossal financial empires dress and hold themselves.

All this was reflected in the shows of major brands such as Gucci, Prada and Fendi last year.

Now many men with money are coming to “quiet luxury”. Conservatism, restraint, careless elegance are becoming a symbol of high status. Large capitals stipulate family values. Money earned by grandfathers is passed on to grandchildren. And there is no need to wear the logos of famous brands to emphasize their own importance.

However, people with average income can look dignified and confident. The main thing is consistency and a sense of taste.

Of course, over time, changing fashion will oust the aesthetics of old money style from mass culture, replacing it with new trends. But people from the real elite will still dress like their grandfathers.

Which of the star men adhere to the old money style?

It is natural that the icons of old money were and remain people from famous and status dynasties. For example, U.S. President John F. Kennedy and his wife Jacqueline, actor Cary Grant, Princess Diana, who came from the ancient aristocratic family Spencer.

Today, the first faces of this style are considered King Charles III and Prince William, as well as the current King of Sweden Carl XVI Gustaf. French fashion blogger Leo Cressant and Italian journalist Marco Taddei can also be attributed to them.

Among the young followers of this trend are popular actors Timothee Chalamet and Jacob Elordi. Many people will be surprised that both Hollywood stars are extreme opposites in type, but both of them look great with old money.