How does a man choose his perfect suit? 5 types and stylist’s instructions

co-owner of the Moscow premium atelier JUST IN TIME

“Are there many values left in the modern world that can claim the status of ‘eternal’? A quality men’s suit is such a value. For centuries, fashion trends, sewing and fabric production technologies have been changing. But one thing has remained unchanged – a properly tailored suit. It will say more than a thousand spoken words”.

For a modern gentleman, business clothes are a necessary “uniform”. No matter what occasion he wears it. It can be an office, business negotiations, solemn marriage ceremony. Universal rules of wearing are unchanged: appropriateness, convenience, individuality.

How did the fashion for men’s suit originate?

Until the XVIII century, men’s costume was similar to women’s in decoration. The main thing – brightness and a lot of decorative details. It was then that the basis was born, which is still used today. It consisted of three items. This is a jacket, a vest and pants. True, then they had names – caftan, camisole and culottes.

Under the suit they wore a shirt, which helped to maintain hygienic cleanliness. After all, other items of closet were rarely subjected to washing.

Then everyday clothes were sewn from materials such as wool and cloth. For ceremonial occasions velvet, silk and satin were chosen. Caftan and camisole tailors decorated with decorations. We are talking about embroidery, galloon. On the cuffs and collars made lace.

By the end of the XVIII century there was a trend for simplicity and convenience. Trends in fashion then set France, but not for men’s clothing. Here England took the reins. Why? French aristocrats spent a lot of time at court, and English gentlemen lived outside the city, where they hunted and raced. This required the appropriate costume.

Englishmen wore surcoats instead of caftans. A distinctive feature was simplicity and freedom. They were decorated with a collar and clasps. This protected from bad weather.

A few years later, a tailcoat became fashionable – one of the varieties of the surtoutuk. They made special cuts on them to make it more convenient to ride. A short vest was worn under it. It was almost a copy of the modern one.

Over time, the costume for an active lifestyle acquired features of the city. What changed? The silhouette became elongated. Because the ideal of male beauty changed – a trim figure came first.

By the end of the XVIII century, men stopped wearing silk. Woolen and cloth garments were preferred. They gave up completely from trimming and lace. They began to wear long pants instead of short pantaloons. This time was marked by the “great male rejection”.

Men’s closet was influenced by the emerging dandyism. Such a current was characterized by restraint and brevity in clothing. Luxury was replaced by minimalism. In the XIX century, all men strived for grooming and perfection. Practically throughout the century, changes were minimal. It mainly concerned details and width of lapels, shoulder line and the length of the falds. Frac was the most appropriate for any life occasion.

The main rule is that the vest should be different from the main suit. As a rule, the color and material. They were sewn from velvet, it had a pattern. Complemented the image with a tie, which was tied in different manners.

By 1840, the tailcoat became a purely ceremonial option. For everyday life chose a comfortable coat. After 10 years, the jacket came first. So began to form a men’s suit.

Since the middle of the XIX century, dressy materials have completely gone. The same was true for vests. They became restrained. As a rule, they were made under the color of pants. It was at this time that for the first time there was a three-piece suit made of the same material. Handkerchief ties now looked like strips of fabric.

The development of sports influenced fashion. Men began to choose comfortable, not tight clothes. So that you can hide all the imperfections of the figure. After all, everyone liked trim people.

How to choose?

Even today, the main rule in the choice is the fit. It is very important to find a manufacturer whose molds fit your physique. Remember, no matter how expensive your clothes are, if it does not fit you correctly – this suit is worth nothing.

If your physique allows, do not be afraid to experiment. Pay attention to a three-piece suit with a vest or a suit with a double-breasted jacket.

The second important rule – it should be comfortable. More and more often manufacturers pay increased attention to the convenience of wearing them. Which is not surprising – a modern man spends up to 12 hours a day in business clothes.

One interesting trend that formed after the pandemic – convenience and comfort above all. Therefore, many people increasingly began to choose the so-called universal city suit. This is lightweight pants and a jacket with a zipper or a safari jacket.

Modern technologies of fabric production have gone so far that now you can choose an outfit made of non-wearing fabric. An ideal option for people who often travel. It has water-repellent properties or has increased elasticity.

The rule of business etiquette says – clothes should correspond to the status of the owner. Do not save money and buy a cheap suit for the office.

When buying it is important to pay attention to the season. For winter it is worth choosing a hundred percent wool. It can be merino or cashmere. Take a closer look at the tweed material. Such a fabric always looks elegant. And most importantly – it does not require complicated care.

For the warm season, give preference to the always relevant linen. This is a hygroscopic material, which will be comfortable even in the heat. Suits made of cotton are always in trend. They are wear-resistant.

5 types of men’s suit

To the surprise of many, the styles of men’s suit can also be diverse. But unlike women’s suits, they are universal in their composition. Designers every year offer options for every occasion.

Business suit

This is the daily companion of the modern man. When choosing a business closet, first of all, it is necessary to comply with the rules of the corporate dress code. It includes a restrained color scheme (dark gray, dark blue, black, dark brown) and a classic cut.

In the second case, try to avoid extremes – too narrow silhouette of pants, shortened jacket, narrow lapels.

Another unspoken rule of such an outfit should also not be neglected. Your clothes should not be more expensive than the boss.

Tuxedo

If you are going to the theater, to the ballet or going to a gala reception, you can not do without a tuxedo. Do not forget that it radically changes the attitude of a man to himself and the world around him. As soon as you put on a black or navy blue suit with silk trimmed lapel collar and trouser lamppasses, complementing the image with a bow tie, you feel like at least a superhero.

We advise every member of the stronger sex to try on this amazing outfit at least once.

Costume

In the choice of weekend costume there are no rules. It is recommended not to be afraid to experiment with color and style. Use unpaired combinations of jacket and pants. They can be made of fabrics of different colors. However, do not combine in one image plaid and stripes.

Suit-double

This option is in the closet of almost every member of the stronger sex. As a rule, these are things of dark shades, a single-breasted jacket with two buttons and rectangular lapels. There are a lot of models for people of different ages and complexion.

English style

This is a classic. It is always relevant and suitable for any occasion. What is worth having in your arsenal always. As a rule, such a suit has a simple cut, traditional color, which gives elegance to the silhouette. There can be a slightly elongated fitted jacket with straight or reinforced shoulders.

Unconventional models and trends of men’s suit

If you are a creative person and prefer to stand out from the crowd, then there are options for you as well. For example, young men will perfectly suit models with shortened pants. They can be complemented with high boots or chelsea boots. If you choose standard shoes, then do not forget to wear bright socks.

You can also draw attention to yourself by using the right patterns and prints. Many people think that suits for men come in solid colors, plaid or stripes. Classics do have a firm place in the closet. It is elegant. But try a small pattern. Such a variety will give freshness and originality.

Now in the trend is a sufficiently unusual color scheme: purple, turquoise, coral, fuchsia. This will emphasize your boldness and uncommon taste. Such options are considered even by grooms for the wedding ceremony.

Fashion designers offer to use atypical fabrics for sewing. It is about velvet, corduroy, silk, velour and eco leather. For age men and especially bold suede and leather suits are suitable.

What else to pay attention to? Do not forget that the good old layering is welcome today. Even in a man’s suit. Also, more and more often the classic shirt is replaced by sweaters, turtlenecks.

Remember that today models and styles can be both classic and have very bold variations. The main thing to fit your temperament and character. If the suit fits you perfectly, you will look elegant. There is nothing worse than things from someone else’s shoulder. Especially now, even in the office, you can not dress in the standard dress code. An important point is the quality of material and tailoring. All this will make you irresistible.