Total immersion: a crazy experiment by snowboarder Mathieu Crépel

Trying new things, challenging yourself every day and not being afraid to dream – perhaps these phrases can characterize the whole essence of extreme movement. It doesn’t matter whether you’re a surfer or a snowboarder. If a snowy spot or the appearance of a wave on the horizon makes your heart beat faster, then you’re definitely in the zone.

Right after the premiere of the new movie-experiment SHAKA we managed to meet the main character of the film – three-time world champion in snowboarding, pro rider of the global snow team Quiksilver, beautiful smiling Frenchman Mathieu Crepel. The movie itself is an incredible adventure, a challenge, a personal story of Mathieu, who dared to conquer one of the most dangerous waves (Jaws) in the world. About how a professional snowboarder dared to challenge the whole world surfing community, and first of all himself, Mathieu talked to the rider of Quiksilver Russia team Evgeny “Jun” Ivanov.

Evgeny “Zhun” Ivanov: To start with a few questions about you. When did you realize that you can’t live without extreme sports?

Mathieu Crépel: I think it was at a very early age. Snowboarding and surfing are my parents’ hobbies, so there was no chance for me not to learn the sport as a kid(smiles). And when I turned 10, I was invited on a trip to Greenland. I think that was the trip that started it all. I came back from there and realized that this is what I want to do for the rest of my life.

– It’s very cool, especially when you’re only 10 years old. Where did you first try surfing? Was it in Europe or maybe in the tropics?

– It was in Europe because, like I said, everything came from my parents. We spent winters in the Pyrenees and summers in the islands. We had one family place and that’s where I tried my first stand up surf.

– How old were you then?

– I think I was just a kid, 7 or 8 years old.

– What came first in your life, surfing or snowboarding?

– My dad was a ski instructor, so we spent a lot of time in the mountains. I started with skiing. When I was very young, snowboarding didn’t exist, at least for kids. So first it was skiing, snowboarding, and then surfing and even skateboarding.

– How do you feel when you’re riding at high speed? Do you prefer high speed or a more sustained and maneuverable riding style?

– It depends on the conditions. Sometimes you want to go super-fast and get splashes flying around. And sometimes you like to ride with friends, stop and look around from time to time. It also depends on your mood. When I was skiing, I used to like to go really fast. Just straight and fast.

– What would you rather surf big waves or small waves but with different tricks?

– It’s different setups. Surfing big waves is a challenge, very impressive. But on the other hand, balancing on small waves is cool too. Combining the two is perfect.

– What do you think about when you’re riding in the mountains on a snowboard or catching waves in the surf?

– I think about the moment. Enjoying it as much as I can. We’re very lucky to be doing this. And also about friends, moments like this you always want to share with them.

– Can you describe your feelings in the mountains and in the ocean?

– They’re very different. The mountains are closer to me, so I feel more free there. I don’t have to be as focused as when I’m surfing. I mean, the level of concentration is the same, but it’s more natural on a snowboard. I’ve spent my whole life in the mountains, so most of my actions and movements are automatic, I don’t fume at all. It’s a lighter setup in my head. Surfing is still a little bit more testing of you and your abilities. You have to be more prepared and more attentive, your heart rate increases more.

– I see. Do you think there are any differences between the snowboarding and surfing communities?

– I think there are. Even though these sports are close to each other. Snowboarders like to surf and surfers like to snowboard(laughs). But I think the main difference is that the snowboarding community is more cohesive and friendly. I don’t like to snowboard alone. I like to get my friends together, let them get ahead of me and then overtake them. Surfing is a little bit different: it’s more competitive.

– Have you ever met a surfer who hates snowboarding?

– Hmmm…no. All the surfers I know love to ride in the mountains.

– Which is more unpredictable, the waves or the mountains?

– Absolutely definitely the mountains. One hundred percent. When the waves are big, you see it. You see the ocean as a whole. Mountains can seem beautiful, almost perfect, but it’s very hard to see the truth. You just go into something unpredictable. That’s why they scare me sometimes. In surfing, if you want to catch a big wave, you have to practice a lot. Training and experience helps. In snowboarding, no. You can train to learn how to read the mountains. But luck plays a big part. I feel the more experience I gain, the more scared of the mountains I get. In the ocean, it’s the opposite.

– We Russians usually feel that the ocean is more unpredictable than the mountains. Thank you for revealing the details. How did you prepare for filming?

– The whole movie is about the challenge. It’s about how I decided to try something for the first time. The hardest part was surfing huge waves for the first time.

– How did you do it?

– Step by step. When I was a kid, I surfed small waves. I was really scared. Then I met some friends who called me out on the big ones, and I loved the feeling. I was still scared of the waves, but I liked going fast and long. There’s a part in the movie where I spend a few days at the freediving championships. It was an important part of my physical training. I was learning how to breathe technically and how to relax properly. In those moments when you run out of breath, you have to relax mentally as much as possible.

– What was more challenging, mental or physical training?

– I think a mix of both. They are strongly related to each other. When it gets physically tough, you have to engage the mental part. The main thing is to find a solution in your head to help yourself. The mental comes out of the physical.

– So when did you say to yourself, “Okay, now I’m ready”?

– You never know if you’re ready or not. I knew I had to practice a lot, and then I started to feel more or less confident. Not 100 percent, but at least 80 percent.

– Was it hard to control all the details?

– It was a bit nerve-wracking. But I prepared physically and mentally. This experience helped me.

– What was the biggest challenge in filming snowboarding and surfing?

– Making the movie. The process itself was a challenge. We had a small crew. It’s not easy to organize all the trips, buying plane tickets, getting all the people together at the right time, inviting guests, finding a good location, money, sponsors.

With this movie, we wanted to inspire people to do something new. It didn’t matter what. Just trying to give them a boost.

– What does this movie mean to you?

– It was an attempt to test myself, to get out of my comfort zone. I’ve always loved snowboarding and I felt like I needed to take a new step. I’ve already had achievements in it, and I’ve been surfing since I was a kid as a hobby. With this movie we wanted to inspire people to do something new. It didn’t matter what. Just trying to give them a boost.

– How long did the whole process of making the movie take?

– Two and a half years.

– Wow!

– Yeah, I started thinking about this project in the spring of 2016. I first got the idea to experience big waves when I visited a friend of mine who is a professional snowboarder. We had wanted to make some kind of movie together for a long time, but there was no opportunity. Then we came up with a story like this and started acting. It was a long process.

– Where did you shoot?

– We filmed a lot of places: in America, in France, in Italy, in Indonesia.

– And can you share your favorite places where you can surf and snowboard at the same time?

– Yes, there are a few places. The first one is France, the Pyrenees. I grew up here, so I do both. You can ride down the mountains in the morning and catch the waves in the evening. You could also go to Alaska, Chile, or the Lofoten Islands in Norway.

– Imagine I’m 10 years old and I want to start surfing big waves. Where do I start?

– I don’t know. Probably wait a couple more years(laughs). The waves are very heavy and can crush you into little pieces. You have to start small and learn step by step.

– Do you think it’s dangerous to do extreme sports if you’re too young?

– Yes. When you’re young, you don’t always realize the danger. You only start to realize it as you get older. That’s what happened to me. One day I went back to where I was riding as a kid and I was really surprised. I was just crazy. Luckily, everything was fine. You have to explain to the kids what the danger is, help them.

– It’s like that in all sports.

– Exactly. Just enjoy it, practice and set your own goals. It’s cool if you have friends to cheer each other on.

The conversation was led by @joonivanov and @matcrepel